If one loves street food and contemporary arts, Penang is a great choice for a short getaway. Imagine satisfying both your sight and palate on the go! As usual, I did some research on the Penang’s Must-Eat and Penang Street Art for a 3 days trip. As a beach lover, I have decided to stay at Batu Ferranghi instead of the main Georgetown.
We took a 2 hour afternoon flight with AirAsia from Singapore to Penang. On the right side of the airport exit, there is a taxi counter. Accordingly to different areas in Penang, the prices were listed respectively. We paid RM 70, hopped into the taxi, and it was a 45 minutes journey from airport to Batu Ferranghi.
After checking in to Holiday Inn at Batu Ferranghi, we headed to their beach. My husband & I strolled leisurely on their beach, watched the beach activities and witnessed a beautiful sunset together.
Batu Ferringhi night market starts at 7pm. It took us 45 minutes, to have a slow walk from Holiday Inn till the end of Batu Ferringhi market. We ate light street food at Long Beach Hawker Centre and had our dinner at an Indian restaurant at the end of Batu Ferringhi market. They served some yummy and very spicy Mutton Rara Gosht.
Day One
With the hotel free shuttle bus, we reached Georgetown at 11am. And the hunt for yummy food and street arts began. First makan stop was 183 Carnarvon Street for Pitt Street Homemade Fish Ball Kuay Teow Th’ng (椰腳粿條湯). We ordered two bowls of dried fish balls noodle.
My verdict: The knock outs are in their soup and fish balls. You can taste the full fish soup flavour. Their fish balls were soft, freshly home-made. Absolutely no, elastic springy feel.
After our meal, we began our walk in World Heritage Site, George Town. She has developed herself as a vibrant showcase for Penang street art, first by the Lithuanian artist Ernest Zacharevic and followed by many other local artists.
Second stop was an artsy, old heritage converted to cafe – China House at 153-155 Lebuh Pantai. Each table has drawing materials for customers, to unleash their creativity. We ordered drinks only as as we were catering the stomach “space” for our Penang food trail.
Third stop was Mr Gan’s Crispy Oyster Omelette. It was a short distance, 5 minutes walk from China House located at Lam Ah Coffee Shop at Lebuh Chulia, opposite Lebuh Pintai fire station. It opens 10:30am – 4:30pm daily except Sunday & Public Holidays.
We placed our order, watched his entire cooking process and I loved how Mr Gan plates every fried oyster omelette of his. I was thinking, “It was just street food, just RM 6, yet he bothers to place each plate with so much passion.”
Diagonally across the road, opposite Lam Ah Coffee Shop, there is a Ghee Hiang (義香) outlet. Ghee Hiang originated from Fujian Province, is a traditional manufacturer of Tau Sar Piah, Sesame Seed Oil, Hneoh Piah, Beh Teh Saw and Phong Piah. Of course, we bought 3 boxes of their famous Tau Sar Piah (豆沙饼).
We continued enjoying Penang’s street art, while heading towards Chew’s Jetty direction.
The Chew Jetty is said to be the more known and prominent one among the eight clan jetties of Pengkalan Weld. The origin is traced back to the earlier Chinese settlements (from Fujian Province) in Penang who built these “water” villages on stilts. Each jetty comprises of row houses on stilts joined by wooden walkways over the water.
Sad to say, one of Ernest Zacharevic’s wall paintings has faded off at Chew Jetty. Nonetheless, it was an interesting 30 minutes walk at Chew Jetty.
Thereafter, we took a taxi from Chew Jetty and head for the famous Penang Chendol located at Lebuh Keng Kwee, off Penang Road. There are two stalls and obviously, the one with the Queue is the one. The owner gave us a tip, “After you collected your chendol, walk upwards (just 20 steps) and eat there. If you eat at the coffeeshop behind us, you need to pay to occupy a seat.”
The long queue took us about 20 minutes before we can savor our chendol and Ice Kachung. My verdict: Yummiest chendol with strong flavor (yet light) in non-sweeten condensed milk, perfect salty and sweet balance. The Ice Kachung was not as sweet as Singapore’s. My husband and I became very happy little kids. Ha-ha …
We decided to take public bus from Georgetown to our hotel, Batu Ferringhi. It only cost us RM4 per person for a 40 minutes ride. As we walked to the bus stop, we cannot stop ourselves to continue to eat the yummy Penang street food.
We headed to have our dinner at Beach Corner Seafood restaurant, Batu Ferringhi. They are famous for their Hainanese spring roll. I even walked to take a peep at their kitchen. The spring roll is freshly made and fried upon order. Others included chicken wings and salted egg crabs. My verdict: Best Fried Spring Roll I have had in my 39 years.
As we walked back to our hotel, with our tummies happily doing “the belly dance” and our palates were overwhelmingly satisfied.
Day Two
Similarly, we took our hotel free shuttle and reached Georgetown at 11am and hunt for the famous Penang White Curry Noodle. The most famous shop is known as Hot Bowl White Curry Mee located at 16-A, Lorong Abu Siti. It opens daily except Monday from 8:30am – 3pm.
My verdict: The fragranced coconut soup “woke up” our hungry brains, yet it is not thick. You can add the amount of chilli paste you like, to determine the level of spiciness. Yummy-ness!
As we continue to the Penang Street Art hunt, we saw Penang rickshaws, temples & money changer shop with old Singapore notes in the 60s.
One cannot complete their Penang Food Trail if you have not eaten in Line Clear Nasi Kadar. It is located at 177 Penang Road. It originated in the 70s and has a long history. I asked my husband, “Why is it called Line Clear? There is queue.”
My husband said, “No, the food is all cleared up hence, no queue a.k.a Line Clear”. My verdict: The mutton is the best. It is stewed to perfection and simply smelt in your mouth. Their curry fish head can feed 4 person. Super huge.
After a sumptuous late lunch, we continued exploring Georgetown street arts and came across The Camera Museum.
I was actually searching for the Street Art of “Two hearts painted on two telephone booths” around Love Lane. However, I could not locate it and I was told by nearby stalls that it may have demolished. Thus, we just strolled along Love Lane and having our own fun with the street art. What a way to celebrate our 2014 Valentine’s Day.
We stumbled upon a quaint café at Steward Lane, Alley Café. We had our afternoon tea at this artistic, chill café. We love their desserts.
More streets arts greeted us as we ended our last day in Georgetown, heading towards Gurney Drive Hawker Centre.
At Penang Road, we took public bus number 101 to Gurney Drive (1hr journey due to peak period) and have a short 5 minutes walk. Gurney Drive Hawker Centre is facing the sea promenade and is the place of conciliation of all Penang delicacies for tourists. We ordered the yummy food from Satay, Char Kway Teow, Wan Ton Mee and Rojak.
It was so sinful and we were stuffed (as usual). My verdict: Gurney Drive Food Market Hawker Centre food is average if I were to compare against the Best of Char Kway Teow in a particular stall of Penang. For me, their satay is the best and the peanut sauce texture is more watery (as compared to Singapore), yet full of peanut flavor.
Our first Penang trip has finally came to an end. All I can say is every meal, for the past 3 days, we were basically stuffed till our throat. Penang really lives up to the title of Food Capital of Malaysia.
Below are some of my humble suggestions:-
#1 If your main priority is for Penang food, one should stay in Georgetown. For beach lovers, one can stay at Batu Ferranghi for the great sunset and travelling to Georgetown is easy with public transports (40 minutes – 1hour subject to traffic conditions). Taxi would be faster approximately 20-30 minutes and cost about RM30-40 per trip from Batu Ferringhi.
#2 Georgetown Heritage area can be done within 3 full days under leisure walking. A 5 days Penang holiday can do more such as visiting the durian plantations and a cable car ride to Penang Hill etc.
#3 Weather can be very hot and most buildings do not have extended shelter. Caps, Evian facial spray & light cotton T-shirts are strongly recommended. I would also suggest visiting in Oct-early Nov before the heavy raining season approaches year end.
#4 June-July is the annual season for Penang Durian and it would be awesome to visit the Durian plantation and have a durian feast.
#5 I personally find that if it is a short 3 days trip, public transports are sufficient. If beyond 3 days, one can consider renting a car. However, do note that parking in Georgetown is difficult as there are insufficient parking facilities.
#6 Below photo is the map of the Penang Street Arts (updated as of end 2013).
Summarised Food Address & Details
1) Pitt Street Homemade Fish Ball Koay Teow Th’ng [183 Carnarvon Street. Open daily at 9am – 4.30pm. Closed on Sun & Mon]
2) China House [153 Lebuh Pantai, Georgetown. Open daily 10am-9pm]
3) Mr. Gan Crispy Fried Oysters [Lam Ah Coffee Shop (opposite Beach Road fire station), Lebuh Chulia. Closed on Sun & Public Holiday. 10:30am-4:30pm]
4) Penang Road Famous Cendol [Lebuh Keng Kwee, off Penang Road, Georgetown]
5) Beach Corner Seafood Restaurant [Komplek Batu Senja, Batu Ferringhi. Closed on Wednesday. Opens 7pm-11pm]
6) Hot Bowl White Curry Mee [16-A, Lorong Abu Siti, 10400, Georgetown. Opens from 8am to 3pm; Closed on Mondays]
7) Line Clear Nasi Kandar [177 Penang Road, Georgetown]
8) The Alley Café [5, Lorong Stewart, Georgetown]
9) Gurney Drive Hawker Centre [Persiaran Gurney, Georgetown. Opens daily from 6pm – 12 midnight]
Other Famous Food Places (Yet To Try)
1) Siam Road Char Kuay Teow [Near intersection of Anson road and Siam road, Georgetown. Tue – Sun, 3pm-11pm, closed on Mondays]
2) Kafe Heng Huat [108 Lorong Selamat, Georgetown. Opens from 11.30am to 6pm. Closed on Tuesdays]
3) Toh Soon Cafe 多春茶座 [Campbell Street, Off Penang Road. 8am to 6pm. Closed on Sundays]
4) Mama’s Nyonya Cuisine [31-D, Lorong Abu Siti, George Town. Tue-Sun, 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-9.30pm; closed on Monday]
5) Dim Sum Food Restaurant [63 Macalister Road, Georgetown]
6) Gartien 小田佳园 [ 68 Lorong Macalister, Georgetown]
7) Asam Laksa [11500 Air Itam, Jalan Pasar, Open daily: 11.15am-7.30pm]
8) Kim Leng Loh Mee [336-G1 Lintang Slim, off Jalan Perak. Opening Hours: 7am – 4pm. Closed on Thursday]
9) 888 Hokkien Mee [72, Lorong Mahsuri 10, Bayan Baru, Penang. 5:30pm to 12am; Closed on every Thursday]
I am sure that Penang has been enlisted (ha-ha) to be one of my annual short getaway trips. With many, more good yummy food to savour, a continuous excitement for my palate and satisfaction for my belly.
Bon Appetite, Penang!
Julia The Resfeber 